Document details - Tecumseh service manual download

Looking for:

Tecumseh service manual download 

Click here to DOWNLOAD

   

 

Tecumseh engine manuals, Tecumseh repair manuals, Tecumseh service manuals. Tecumseh service manual download

 

The main nozzle and both idle fuel discharge ports are supplying fuel due to the low air pressure in the intake of the engine. A maximum fuel flow through the carburetor orifices combined with the reduced quantity of air that passes through the carburetor, make a very rich fuel mixture which is needed to start a cold engine. At engine IDLE speed, a relatively small amount of fuel is required to operate the engine. The throttle is almost completely closed.

Air flows through the carburetor at high speed. The venturi, which decreases the size of the air passage through the carburetor, further accelerates the air flow. This high speed movement of the air decreases the air pressure at the main nozzle opening. Fuel is forced out the main nozzle opening due the difference in the atmospheric air pressure on the fuel in the carburetor bowl and the reduced air pressure at the main nozzle opening.

Carefully disassemble carburetor, removing all non-metallic parts, i. Nylon check balls used in some diaphragm carburetors are not serviceable. Nylon can be damaged if subjected to harsh cleaners for prolonged periods. Remove the primer bulb if equipped by grasping with a pliers and pulling and twisting out of the body. Remove the retainer by prying and lifting out with a screwdriver.

Do not re-use old bulb or retainer. Remove all welch plugs if cleaning the carburetor. Secure the carburetor in a vise equipped with protective jaws. Drive the chisel into the plug to pierce the metal and push down on the chisel to pry the plug out of the hole.

Clean all metallic parts with solvent. To install a new welch plug after cleaning, place welch plug into receptacle with raised portion up. With a punch equal to the size of the plug, merely flatten the plug. Do not dent or drive the center plug below the top surface of the carburetor. After installing the welch plug, seal the outer diameter with finger nail polish. Do not use clear polish. Examine the throttle lever and plate prior to disassembly. When reassembling, it is important that the lines on the throttle plate are facing out when in the closed position.

Position throttle plates with the two lines at 12 and 3 o clock. If throttle plate has only one line, the line should be positioned in the 12 o clock position. If binding occurs, correct by loosening the screws and repositioning the throttle plate. Examine the choke lever and shaft at the bearing points and holes into which the linkage is fastened, and replace if worn or damaged.

The choke plate is inserted into the air horn of the carburetor in such a position, that the flat side of the choke is down.

Before disassembly note the direction of choke plate movement. Choke plates will operate in either direction. Make sure it is assembled properly for your engine. The fuel bowl must be free of dirt and corrosion. When disassembling a carburetor for repair, always replace the fuel bowl O ring. Lubricate the O ring with a small amount of oil for easier installation. Install the float bowl by placing the detent portion opposite of the hinge pin. Make sure the deepest end of the bowl is opposite of the inlet needle.

The bowl has a small dimple located in the deepest part. The purpose of this dimple is to minimize the chances of the float sticking to the bottom of the bowl caused by stale fuel. Remove the adjusting screws from the carburetor body and examine the point, replace the screws if damaged. Tension is maintained on the screw with a coil spring. Examine and replace the O ring seal s if damaged. NOTE: If screws are made of plastic, dip the end of the screw in oil before installation to prevent damage.

The fuel bowl retaining nut has a fixed main jet incorporated in the nut. This small jet must be clean for proper fuel metering. Clean by using compressed air. Float-type carburetors must have atmospheric air pressure acting against the fuel in the fuel bowl.

These vents can be external, with a hole drilled through the side of the carburetor casting or internal where atmospheric air is picked up in the air horn near the air cleaner. Regardless of the type, these vents must be clear and free from dirt, paint, grease, etc. Remove the float by pulling out the float hinge pin. Lift the float away from the carburetor body. This will also lift the inlet needle out of the seat.

Examine the float for damage. Check the float hinge bearing surfaces for wear, as well as the tab that contacts the inlet needle. Replace any damaged or worn parts. Float sticking can occur due to fuel deposits gum or varnish. Push the hook through the hole in the center of the seat and remove it. Never reuse the old seat, always replace it with a new seat. If the required adjustment is minor, the tab adjustment may be made without removing float and carefully inserting a small bladed screwdriver to bend the tab.

Be careful not to damage other parts. To install a new seat, make sure the seat cavity is clean, then moisten the seat with a drop of oil to help it slide into place. Be sure to drain any fuel into an approved container. Invert the carburetor and remove the float bowl. Place a drop of an oil based product such as WD on the tip of the needle valve. Using a commercially available psi pump and gauge, attach the pumps hose to the carburetor inlet.

Apply approximately 6 psi or until the needle pops off the seat. The needle should seat at 1. If the minimum 1. The idle on the Series 8 is metered using a threaded restrictor See illustration. Proper torque of this restrictor is critical, it should be torqued to in.

When the restrictor is placed in the idle circuit passage it is capped with a tamper resistant plastic cap. If the jet is removed for cleaning it must be recapped to prevent tampering when it is re-installed. The inlet needle hooks onto the float tab by means of a spring clip.

To prevent binding, the long, straight, open end of the clip must face the choke end of the carburetor as shown. The procedure for setting the float height is as follows. Remove the bowl gasket, then hold the carburetor in the inverted position. Place the drill bit across the carburetor body opposite and parallel to the float hinge pin.

Adjust the float height by bending the tab on the float until it touches the bit. To install, start the retainer and bulb into the casting with the retainer tabs pointed out. With the choke plate and shaft removed, blow compressed air through the high speed air bleed located just behind the lower choke shaft bearing and immediately in front of the venturi to remove any dirt that may have accumulated.

Blow compressed air through all of the passages, making sure they are free of dirt, varnish or foreign material. Inspect diaphragms for cracks, tears or brittleness. Replace if necessary. Rivet head on diaphragm must always face toward the inlet needle valve. If there is no designation, the sequence is gasket, diaphragm and cover. When removing choke and throttle shafts, check shafts and bearings in carburetor body for wear.

Any looseness in these areas can cause dirt to enter the engine resulting in premature wear. If dust seals are present, they should be positioned next to the carburetor body. Install the dust seal, metal washer, and finally the return spring. Welch plugs should be removed for proper cleaning of the carburetor See welch plug service at the beginning of this section. When all accessories and shafts have been removed, soak the carburetor in carburetor cleaner for a maximum of 30 minutes.

Blow out all passages with compressed air in the opposite direction of normal fuel flow. The carburetor body on non-emission carburetors contains a main nozzle tube pressed into the carburetor body to a predetermined depth within the venturi of the carburetor. DO NOT attempt to remove this main nozzle. Any movement of this nozzle will seriously affect the metering characteristics of the carburetor. Emissions carburetors have a serviceable plastic nozzle.

Clean the well surrounding the main nozzle with carburetor. Use a socket to remove inlet needle and seat. Replace with complete assembly.

Main Menu with primers must have a check valve located in or behind the fuel inlet fitting of the carburetor. This is to prevent fuel from being forced back to the fuel line and tank when priming. Two types of check valves have been used. One is a brass check valve pushed into the carburetor body in the fuel inlet. The other is a teflon disc located in the area under the fuel fitting. These two types of check valves are not interchangeable. Turn a nut on to a tap and slide a washer on after it.

Be sure to install in the same position as the original. When installing fitting, insert tip into the carburetor body, then coat the exposed portion of the shank with Loctite Blue; then press it in, until the shoulder contacts the carburetor body.

Turn the tap with nut and washer into the valve until the tap begins to protrude through the valve when viewed through the inlet needle and seat opening. Turn the nut clockwise to pull the valve out from the carburetor body. Pressing the bulb creates air pressure against the diaphragm. Fully depress primer bulb with your thumb, making sure that the vent hole in bulb is covered. Release and allow bulb to return to original position.

The teflon disc-type can be cleaned by using low air pressure forced into the inlet fitting. If service is required, pull out inlet fuel fitting and replace the teflon disc. Put a drop of oil on the disc and position in the cavity of the carburetor.

Replace fuel inlet fitting as outlined in Fuel Inlet Fitting instructions. As the diaphragm lifts, the inlet needle is lifted off its seat and the fuel within the reservoir is fed up through the passages into the air horn. A one-way valve in the body prevents the fuel from being forced back into the fuel tank.

Loosen screw until it just clears throttle lever, then turn screw in 1 turn. Do not attempt to remove. Blow air through passage. Check float for leaks or dents. Clean bowl and adjust float level position gasket or gaskets. Set float to proper level. The check ball is a non serviceable item.

Head of rivet must touch inlet needle. Hole must be clean. On models with primer bulb, vent hole is very small and is located off center or in the primer bulb. Place detent reference mark to proper location. See chapter appropriate to specific carburetor.

The idle mixture screw is located on the top of the carburetor near the engine. This carburetor has been manufactured with 2 different types of inlet needle and seats. One has a hard needle with a synthetic rubber seat, the other has a nonreplaceable brass seat with a synthetic rubber tipped needle. Outboard carburetors have a built-in fuel pump consisting of a fuel pump element which inflates and deflates with crankcase pulses which opens and closes two flap valves in the fuel pump, thereby pumping fuel from a remote tank to the carburetor float bowl.

When replacing the fuel pump element, install with the slot opening at a 45 o angle as illustrated. On the outside of the element, suction opens the inlet flap drawing a supply of fuel from the tank and lines into the cavity created by the deflating pump element. Then position the extended end of the choke rod spring on the idle adjustment rod and align the spring with the choke rod holes in the bracket.

Press the choke rod through the bracket and spring with the link attaching hole toward the carburetor side. Install the choke shaft link in the rod, then install the other end in the choke lever. This pressurized fuel acts against the outlet flap valve, opening it, allowing a head of pressurized fuel to be transmitted to the inlet needle and seat port.

The inlet valve is pressed against the inlet port, sealing it so that pressurized fuel does not escape back into the fuel tank and lines. The rod should turn about a half turn before contacting the extended end of the choke spring. Tighten the control bracket screw. Pull the choke rod to assure that the choke shutter closes. Make sure the flaps are in good condition and the strainer is not clogged or damaged.

Replace as necessary. Make sure the cover is not warped; check by laying on a flat surface. If warped, replace. If not warped severely, it can be refaced using a hard surface and emery cloth. Notches on the carburetor body insure that the gasket, valve, and cover are positioned on the body correctly.

When tightening screws, snug bottom screw, then top screw and torque to in. Install the idle adjustment rod into the bracket then turn the setscrew The absence of adjustment screws indicate fixed jets with no adjustments necessary. To pre-set the idle speed, back out the screw, then turn in until the screw just touches the throttle lever.

Finally, turn the screw in one 1 turn. Once the engine is running and brought up to operating temperature minutes , the final idle R. This setting is approximate and will be enough to allow the engine to start so that final carburetor adjustments can be made.

Start the engine and allow it to warmup for approximately 5 minutes. Do not adjust the carburetor with the engine cold. Turn the mixture adjusting screw clockwise until the engine starts to falter, remember this location.

Next turn the screw counterclockwise until the engine start to sputter or drops in R. Now turn the screw clockwise until it is halfway between these two locations.

This will be the optimum carburetor setting. This setting will allow the engine to be started so that the carburetor can be fine tuned. Do not adjust the carburetor when the engine is cold. Start the engine and let it warm-up for approximately 5 minutes. NOTE: On dual adjust, the first adjustment must be made with the main mixture screw. With the engine running, turn the mixture adjustment screw clockwise until the engine starts to falter, remember this location.

Next turn the screw counterclockwise until the engine starts to sputter or drop in R. With dual adjust carburetor, repeat the above steps for the second idle mixture adjusting screw. Carburetor out of adjustment Clean carburetor after removing all non-metallic parts that are serviceable. Trace all passages. Dirt or restriction in fuel system clean tank and fuel strainers, check for kinks or sharp bends. Examine throttle and choke shafts for binding or excessive play remove all dirt or paint, replace shaft.

Adjust main mixture adjustment screw. Some models require finger tight adjustment. Check to see that it is the correct screw.

Adjust idle mixture adjustment screw. Adjust idle speed screw. Check position of choke and throttle plates. Adjust control cable or linkage to assure full choke and carburetor control. Check sealing of welch plugs, cups, plugs and gaskets. Check fuel pump operation pump element, inner and outer one way valves.

Adjust governor linkage. Adjust float setting. Check float shaft for wear and float for leaks or dents. Check seal for fuel drain or bowl gasket. Is carburetor operating at excessive angle?

Check diaphragm for cracks or distortion and check nylon check ball for function. Check sequence of gasket and diaphragm for the particular carburetor being repaired.

Check spring tension on idle governor if present. Use the parts manual to obtain the same fuel inlet fitting that was installed in the original carburetor. Install the fuel fitting in the new carburetor body in the same position as on the original carburetor.

Support the carburetor body with a wood block to avoid damage to other parts. Use a bench vise or press to install the fitting squarely. Press it in until it bottoms out.

Use a pliers or vise to remove the plastic part of the inlet fitting. Turn it in until it contacts the throttle lever. Then an additional 1 turn for a static setting. Remove the choke shutter screw from the original carburetor and remove the choke shaft. Observe the position of the ends of the choke return spring if one is present. Some chokes turn clockwise and some turn counterclockwise, note the position of the choke shaft prior to removal from the old carburetor.

If a choke stop spring is present on the new carburetor and is not used on the old carburetor, cut it off with a side cutter or pull it out using a pliers. Test the action of choke shaft to make sure it moves freely and easily and does not bind in either open or closed position. If binding occurs, loosen the shutter screw; reposition the shutter and tighten the screw. Install the throttle spring and lever on the new carburetor with the self-tapping screw furnished.

If dust seals are furnished, install them under the return spring. All Tecumseh 2 cycle engines covered in this book are equipped with pneumatic air vane governors. Air vane governors are controlled by the air velocity created by fins on the flywheel.

Changes in the engine R. The throttle is opened as the engine R. The air velocity exerts pressure on the air vane while a governor spring exerts pressure against the air velocity force. The air vane pivots on the engine flange or is attached to the throttle shaft of the carburetor. M drop, the air velocity also drops, allowing the governor spring to pull open the throttle shaft and increase engine speed.

The best method is to record the linkage attachment points prior to disassembly and reinstall the same way. Illustrations showing most governor and linkage hookups are pictured in this section.

Select the diagram that resembles the engine you are servicing. Rotate sleeve clockwise to increase R. NOTE: The sleeve is serrated to rotate in a clockwise direction and must be raised using the sleeve tabs before it can be rotated counterclockwise.

To disassemble, remove choke shutter with needlenose pliers; the vane assembly may then be removed from the carburetor. Horizontal shaft engines use side mounted starters which can be mounted to pull either vertically or horizontally.

All rewind starters except the vertical pull style turn the engine over by engaging a dog s into the starter cup attached to the engine flywheel. The vertical pull starter engages the starter gear into the ring gear of the flywheel to turn the engine over. All starters are spring loaded to retract the dog s or starter gear when the engine speed exceeds the turning speed of the starter.

The retainer ears act as a ramp to fully extend the starter dog s. The fully extended starter dog s locks in contact with notches in the starter cup. When the engine fires and the rotational speed of the starter cup exceeds the starter pulley, the starter dog s disengages from the starter cup. The starter dog spring s returns the starter dog s to the disengaged position. The recoil spring turns the starter pulley in the opposite direction, retracting the starter rope until the handle contacts the stop.

Visually inspect the starter dog s , starter cup, retainer, springs, rope, washers, and the starter pulley for wear or breakage. Use one of the following procedures that applies to your application, to disassemble, repair, and assemble the starter.

Always consult the Tecumseh Master Parts Manual for the correct replacement parts. Consult the Tecumseh Master Parts Manual to obtain the correct part number, length, and size required. Use the following rope chart to convert a numbered rope to a fractional diameter for bulk rope use. Check the old rope for the right length for the application. Some applications require longer lengths. The rope ends should be cauterized by burning with a match and wiping the rope end with a cloth while hot.

Use the following procedure for rope replacement. Remove the starter assembly from the engine. Pry out the staple with a small screwdriver and remove the original rope. Main Menu 3. Turn the pulley counterclockwise to fully wind the starter return spring until tight. Hold the pulley in this position and feed the new rope through the hole and tie a left-handed knot on the rope end.

Make sure the rope and knot do not protrude from the knot cavity and bind the pulley rotation. Remove the brake spring, spring retainer, washers, and pulley assembly diag. All components in need of service should be replaced. Remove the starter handle if the retainer is a complete circle design. Remove the staple and old retainer. Slide the rope retainer into the proper position and insert the staple using a pliers. Install the starter handle and tie a left hand knot to secure the handle.

After removing the rewind assembly from the engine blower housing, release the tension on the rewind spring. This can be done by removing the starter handle and carefully allowing the rope to unwind in the starter housing assembly.

Set the rewind on a bench, supported on the socket. The stamped steel center pin is driven out from the top, inside the center hole. Move the punch around while driving the pin to help keep the pin straight. Reverse the disassembly procedure. The starter dogs with the dog springs must snap back to the center of the pulley disengaged position.

When the rope is pulled, the tabs on the retainer must be positioned so that they will force the starter dogs to engage the starter cup. Always replace the center spring pin with a new one upon reassembly.

Place the two new plastic washers between the center leg of the starter and the retainer. New plastic washers are provided with a new center spring pin. Discard the old plastic washer. The retainer will bend and the starter dogs will not engage the starter cup. On the stamped steel starter the center pin should be driven in until it contacts the shoulder in the starter body.

Wind the starter pulley counterclockwise four or five turns to pre-load the recoil spring, thread the rope through the starter housing eyelet and tie a temporary knot in the rope. Reattach the starter handle to the rope using a left-hand knot.

Untie the temporary knot and allow the rope to recoil. Remove the handle and relieve the starter spring tension by allowing the rope to slip past the rope clip.

Remove the spring cover by carefully removing the two small screws. Carefully take out the spring. Remove the center hub screw and the spring hub. Lift off the gear and pulley assembly. Disassemble the pulley assembly by removing the snap ring and washer diag. Remove the starter rope if necessary. Replace all worn or damaged parts. Place a small amount of grease on the center shaft, place the gear and pulley into position making sure the brake spring loop is positioned over the metal tab on the bracket.

The rope clip must fit tightly onto the bracket. The raised section fits into the hole in the bracket. After removing the rewind assembly from the engine blower housing, remove the starter handle by first pulling a length of rope out using the handle, tying a temporary knot in the exposed rope, and either untying the knot in handle or prying out the staple.

Install the hub and hub screw. Torque the hub screw to 45 - 55 in. A loose hub screw will prevent the rope from retracting. Install the return spring if necessary. Install the spring cover and the cover screws. Wind the rope onto the pulley by slipping it past the rope clip.

When the rope is fully wound on the pulley, wind the pulley assembly two additional turns to put tension on the spring. Untie the temporary knot and slowly allow the rope to fully retract into the starter housing and the recoil spring to fully unwind. Remove the decal from the center of the starter housing.

Use a small Phillips screwdriver or similar tool to pry the retainer legs apart and lift out the retaining wedge. Pinch the legs of the retainer together and pull on the head of the retainer to remove it from the housing. Remove the pulley assembly from the recoil housing. Repair or replace as necessary. If replacing the starter rope, see Step 8. Install a new recoil spring if necessary by pushing the new spring out of the holder into the pulley cavity while aligning the outside spring hook into the deep notch in the pulley.

Push the spring cover in until seated. Apply a small amount of lithium grease to the inner bore of the center shaft. Replace or check that both starter dogs are in the pulley pockets and that the dog springs are hooked on the outer surface of the dog.

Main Menu 5. Pinch the two legs of the plastic retainer together and start into the center shaft hole. Rotate the retainer so the two tabs on the bottom of the part fit between the dog and pulley hub left side of the dog. Push the retainer in until the leg prongs pop out of the center shaft.

Turn the starter over and snap the locking tab between the retainer legs, replace the top decal. Wind the starter pulley counterclockwise four or five turns to pre-load the recoil spring and thread the rope through the starter housing eyelet. Pull enough rope through to tie a temporary knot in the rope. Feed the new rope through the hole and tie a lefthanded knot on the rope end.

Remove the handle if necessary by prying out the small staple in the handle with a screwdriver. Place the starter bracket on the top of a deep well socket that is large enough to receive the head of the center pin. Use an arbor press to drive out the center pin. Rotate the spring capsule strut until it is aligned with the legs of the brake spring. This will keep the capsule in the wound position. Slip the sheave out of the bracket.

Squeeze and hold tightly by hand the spring capsule at the outer edge against the gear sheave. Remove the retainer pin from the strut and slowly relieve the spring tension by allowing the spring capsule to rotate slowly under control, until completely unwound. The spring capsule can now be removed from the gear sheave. Wind the rope on the sheave assembly clockwise, viewing the gear from the gear side of the sheave. Reinstall the brake spring, being careful not to spread the spring more than necessary.

Install the spring capsule, making sure the starter spring end hooks on the gear hub. Wind the spring four full turns and align the brake spring legs with the strut as shown. Insert the pin in the strut. Main Menu 6. If the starter is equipped with a locking or delay pawl and spring, make sure these are in place before grasping the gear and spring capsule assembly and sliding it into the bracket.

Make sure the legs of the brake spring are positioned in the slots of the bracket. Remove the pin and the strut will rotate clockwise against the bracket. Insert the new center pin by pressing or driving the pin firmly in place. Reinstall the starter assembly on the engine. Hook loop of spring into housing and wind in housing in a counterclockwise direction. The spring should have a light coating of grease on it. Place pulley into housing. Install dog spring and dog in starter pulley in the socket closest to the rope hole in pulley.

Replace brake spring, brake and install E clip. To put tension on spring, wind pulley counterclockwise until tight, then allow to unwind until the hole in the pulley lines up with the eyelet in housing, then install rope and handle. Pull rope out to untie knot in rope and slowly release spring tension. Remove E clip, brake, brake spring, starter dog and return spring. Lift out pulley; rewind spring is located in the housing.

Starters labeled CSA cannot be serviced, except for external components. The following starter, number , is a sealed UL and CSA approved starter, and the only component that can be serviced is the drive assembly. Pinion gear parts should be checked for damage or wear. If the gear sticks on the shaft, it should be washed in solvent to remove dirt and grease, then dried thoroughly. If damaged, replace with new parts. On units with the gear under the cap assembly, use the following procedure for disassembly:.

To disassemble the drive assembly, use the following procedure: 1. Remove plastic dust cover. Push down spring retainer and remove retainer ring. Slide off spring retainer, anti-drift spring, gear, friction washer, and engaging nut. Inspect and replace as necessary. Use reverse procedure for assembly. Remove retainer ring from armature shaft. Remove the two nuts from the through bolts holding on the cap assembly.

Slide off the cap assembly. The engaging nut, gear, spring and spring retainer will remain in the cap assembly. Remove, inspect, and replace as necessary. Remove nuts at both ends of the starter and take off rear end cap. Before removing the armature, check brushes for wear.

Make sure brushes are not worn to the point where the brush wire bottoms out in the slot of the brush holder. Brush springs must have enough strength to keep tension on the brushes and hold them against the commutator. If brushes need replacement, remove by unhooking the terminals or cutting the connections and then resoldering. If the brush card is warped from overheating, replace the card assembly.

Check for: 1. No current to the starter caused by faulty connections or blown circuit breaker. Faulty safety switches, ignition, starter switch, or solenoid. Engine locked up or parasitic load on engine. Shorted, open, or grounded field coil.

Open, shorted, or bent armature. Brushes sticking or damaged. Dirty or oily brushes or commutator. Worn brushes or weak brush springs. Dirty, oily, or worn commutator. Worn bearings in cap assemblies. Defective armature. Using a continuity light or ohmmeter, check the field by attaching one lead to each field coil connection. Continuity should exist between these two points.

Check continuity between each field coil connection and the starter housing. No continuity should exist. Pinion gear sticking on shaft. Damaged pinion or flywheel ring gear. If the commutator bars are glazed or dirty they can be turned down on a lathe. While rotating, hold a strip of 00 sandpaper lightly on the commutator, and moving it back and forth.

Do not use emery cloth. Recut the grooves between the commutator bars to a depth equal to the width of the insulators. Use a continuity tester to make certain no continuity exists between the commutator copper and the iron core of the armature, rotate armature and check out all commutator bars. The armature can be thoroughly checked with a growler if available.

Shown here is a typical wiring diagram. At an idle speed R. Before going into extensive checks, be sure to examine the more basic causes first, such as: 1. Make sure bulbs are good and the right ones are being used.

Corroded terminals. Cracked wire insulation. Broken wires. Broken wires covered by insulation. A wire grounding out the system. Loose connections. Make sure regulator has good ground. Faulty Switch. Check the regulator for resistance.

If regulator checks out and all bulbs and wiring are ok, replace alternator coils. Three types of regulators have been utilized. Use the ohm readings in the chart below for the type that you are servicing. Readings should be as follows:. There are two additional methods used by equipment manufacturers that also meet compliance standards, they are:. Use of the blade brake clutch in conjunction with either a top or side mounted recoil starter.

The blade stops within three seconds after the operator lets go of the blade control bail at the operator position and the engine continues to run.

Starter rope handle is on the engine. The ignition kill switch is a plastic block with a wire extending out of it. The wire is attached to a terminal which is connected to the ignition kill wire. This in turn kills the ignition. Use of a recoil starter top or side mounted with the rope handle on the engine as opposed to within 24 inches from the operator position.

This method is acceptable if the mower deck passes the degree foot probe test. A specified foot probe must not contact the blade when applied completely around the entire blade housing. This alternative can be used with engine mounted brake systems and typical bail controls. The blade stops within three seconds after the operator lets go of the blade control bail at the operator position and the engine is stopped.

The Inside Edge system uses the following components: The brake lever and pad assembly consists of a steel lever with a brake pad bonded to the lever. Where a two motion control is used the interlock switch is utilized as the starter switch.

The Torsion Spring supplies the pressure to the brake lever and brake pad to stop the flywheel. If the brake system fails to kill the ignition and stop the blade within 3 seconds the following service procedures should be followed. In the stop position the brake pad is applied to the inside edge of the flywheel, at the same time the ignition system is grounded. In order to restart the engine, the brake control must be applied.

This action pulls the brake pad away from the inside edge of the flywheel and opens the ignition kill switch. On units that the drain plug is accessible, remove the plug and allow the oil to drain into a proper receptacle. Always make sure that drain oil is disposed of properly.

Once the oil is drained, reinstall the plug and fill the engine with new oil to the proper capacity. The following is a minor tune-up procedure. When this procedure is completed, the engine should operate properly. Further repairs may be necessary if the engine's performance remains poor. Service or replace the air cleaner as needed. Inspect the level and condition of the oil and change or add oil as required. Remove the blower housing and clean all dirt, grass or debris from the intake screen, cylinder head, cylinder cooling fins, carburetor, governor levers and linkage.

Make sure the fuel tank, fuel filter and fuel line are clean. Replace any worn or damaged governor springs or linkage. Make the proper governor adjustments and carburetor presets where required. When replacing the spark plug, consult the parts breakdown for the proper spark plug to be used in the engine being serviced. Set the spark plug gap to. Tighten the spark plug to 15 foot pounds of torque Make sure all ignition wires are free of abrasions or breaks and are properly routed so they will not rub on the flywheel.

Properly reinstall the blower housing, gas tank, fuel line and air cleaner assembly if removed. Make sure all remote cables are properly adjusted for proper operation. See chapter 4 under "Speed Controls and Linkage". Reinstall the spark plug wire, add fuel and oil as necessary, and start the engine. Gasoline can become stale in less than 30 days and form deposits that can impede proper fuel flow and engine operation. To prevent deposits from forming, all gasoline must be removed from the fuel tank and the carburetor.

An acceptable alternative to removing all gasoline is adding a fuel stabilizer to the gasoline. Fuel stabilizer such as Tecumseh's Part No.

Always follow the mix ratio found on the stabilizer container. Run the engine at least 10 minutes after adding the stabilizer to allow it to reach the carburetor. Remove all gasoline from the fuel tank by running the engine until the engine stops, or by draining the fuel tank by removing the fuel line at the carburetor or fuel tank.

Be careful not to damage the fuel line, fittings, or fuel tank. Drain the carburetor by pressing upward on the bowl drain if equipped which is located on the bottom of the carburetor bowl.

On carburetors without a bowl drain, the carburetor may be drained by loosening the bowl nut on the bottom carburetor one full turn. Allow to completely drain and retighten the bowl nut being careful not to damage the bowl gasket when tightening. If "Gasohol" has been used, complete the above procedure and then put one half pint of unleaded gasoline into the fuel tank and repeat the above procedure.

If Gasohol is allowed to remain in the fuel system during storage, the alcohol content will cause rubber gaskets and seals to deteriorate. Change Oil: If the oil has not been changed recently, this is a good time to do it. Oil Cylinder Bore: 1.

Disconnect the spark plug wire and ground the wire to the engine. Cover the spark plug hole with a shop towel. Crank the engine over slowly several times. Install the spark plug and connect the spark plug wire. Clean Engine: Remove the blower housing and clean all dirt, grass or debris from the intake screen, cylinder head, cylinder cooling fins, carburetor, governor levers and linkage.

Filtered air is necessary to assure that abrasive particles are removed before entering the carburetor and combustion chamber. Dirt allowed into the engine will quickly wear the internal components and shorten the life of the engine. Tecumseh engines use either a polyurethane or a paper- type air filter system. A polyurethane pre-cleaner or a flocked screen may be used in conjunction with the main filter.

Extremely dirty conditions may require more frequent filter cleaning or replacement. Air is filtered through the pre-cleaner or flocked screen if equipped and the polyurethane or paper filter element. Pre-cleaners or flocked screens provide additional air cleaning capacity. The paper or polyurethane filter element is the main filter to trap dust and dirt. The polyurethane filter uses an oil film to trap fine particles found in dust.

The flocked screen is used as an additional filter on XL or XL7C engine models that use a polyurethane filter element. A dirt restricted or an oil soaked element will cause noticeable performance problems. A polyurethane element may be cleaned following the service procedure listed under "Service" in this chapter.

A paper- type air filter should only be replaced. A paper-type element cannot have an oil film present on the paper. Follow the procedure listed in the "Service" section of this chapter for replacement. Re-try the engine after filter replacement or service.

If the problem persists after filter service, see Chapter 9 under "Engine Operation Problems" for additional causes. Extremely dirty or dusty conditions may require daily cleanings. The paper filter element should be replaced at least once a year or more frequently if operated in dusty or dirty conditions. Unlock the tabs or remove the screws, wingnuts or snaps holding the air cleaner cover in place.

Remove the hex nuts holding the element down if equipped. New nuts are supplied with a new filter and MUST be used for proper sealing. Clean the excess contaminants out of the air cleaner body before removing the old element. On air cleaners that use a flocked screen under the polyurethane element, remove the air cleaner assembly from the carburetor before removing the flocked screen.

This prevents dirt from entering the carburetor diag 3. Clean the inside of the cover and body, remove the old gasket between the carburetor and the air cleaner assembly. Reinstall the air cleaner assembly using a new gasket. Use the reverse procedure for reassembly. When installing the foam polyurethane pre-cleaner, make sure the seam is installed to the outside to prevent gaps between the paper element and the pre-cleaner.

Wash the filter or pre-cleaner in a liquid detergent and water solution until all the dirt is removed. Rinse in clear water to remove the detergent solution. Squeeze the element do not twist to remove the excess water.

Wrap the element in a clean cloth and squeeze it do not twist until completely dry. Re-oil the element by applying engine oil and squeezing it vigorously to distribute the oil. Roll the element in a cloth and squeeze it do not twist to remove the excess oil. Clean the air cleaner housing and cover being careful not to allow dirt to fall into the carburetor or intake pipe. Do not attempt to clean a paper filter element.

Float type carburetors use a hollow float to maintain the operating level of fuel in the carburetor. Diaphragm type carburetors use a rubber-like diaphragm. One side is exposed to intake manifold pressure and the other side to atmospheric pressure.

The diaphragm provides the same basic function maintaining the proper fuel level in the carburetor as the float. An advantage of the diaphragm carburetor over the float style is that the diaphragm carburetor will allow the engine to operate at a greater degree of tiltability. Tecumseh carburetors are identified by a manufacturing number and date code stamped on the carburetor as illustrated diag.

When servicing carburetors, use the engine model and specification number to obtain the correct carburetor part number. An alternate method of finding the correct carburetor part number is to use the manufacturing number stamped on the carburetor and convert this number to a part number. In the carburetor section of the Master Parts Manual, Microfiche Catalog or computer parts look-up system, a cross reference chart will convert a carburetor manufacturing number to a Tecumseh part number.

Complete carburetor replacement may be accomplished with a standard service carburetor. A standard service carburetor is a basic carburetor that may require the use of original carburetor parts or additional new parts to adapt to the specification. NOTE: Todays fuels can cause many problems in an engines performance, due to the fuels quality and short shelf life. Always check fuel as a primary cause of engine performance. Remove the air filter, heater box, or air cleaner assembly if applicable to visually check that the choke shutter completely closes or check to see if fuel comes out of the main nozzle during priming.

If the fuel flow from the tank is adequate and no fuel is evident during priming, the carburetor will need to be removed for service.

Improper fuel flow indicates the fuel, fuel line, filter or tank require cleaning or replacement. Low compression, a dry spark plug, adequate fuel flow, and a known good functional carburetor indicates an internal engine problem exists. A wet spark plug indicates fuel is being supplied by the carburetor. The engine may be flooded by a restricted air filter, carbon shorted or defective spark plug, excessive choking or over priming, improperly adjusted or defective carburetor.

With the spark plug removed and a shop towel over the spark plug hole, turn the engine over slowly 3 or 4 times to remove excess gasoline from the engine cylinder. Replace the air filter if restricted or oil soaked. Replace the spark plug if questionable. Install the spark plug and high tension lead and try to start the engine.

If the engine floods and fails to start, the carburetor will require service. If the carburetor is functioning properly the problem may be ignition timing related. As the engine starts to rotate, downward piston travel creates a low air pressure area or vacuum above the piston. Higher pressure atmospheric air rushes into the engine and fills this low pressure area. Since the majority of the air passage is blocked by the choke shutter, a relatively small quantity of air enters the carburetor at an increased speed.

The main nozzle and both idle fuel discharge ports are supplying fuel due to the low air pressure in the engine intake. Maximum fuel flow through the carburetor orifices combined with the reduced quantity of air that passes through the carburetor, make a very rich fuel mixture which is needed to start a cold engine. At engine IDLE speed, a relatively small amount of fuel is required to operate the engine.

The throttle is almost completely closed. Fuel is supplied through the primary idle-fuel discharge orifice. NOTE: Dual system carburetors do not have an idle circuit. Air flows through the carburetor at high speed. The venturi, which decreases the size of the air passage through the carburetor, further accelerates the airflow. This high speed movement of the air decreases the air pressure at the main nozzle opening.

Fuel is forced out the main nozzle opening due to the difference in the air pressure on the fuel in the carburetor bowl and the reduced air pressure at the main nozzle opening. For the fuel to flow, the carburetor bowl must be either vented externally or internally. Some internally vented float style carburetors use a tygon tube and a vent within the air intake.

This tube must be present for the carburetor to operate properly diag. Air is bled into the main nozzle and through the air bleed located in the air horn. This mixes the fuel and air prior to the fuel leaving the main nozzle. Atomization occurs as the fuel mixture contacts the fast moving air stream.

This mist then flows into the intake of the engine. The basic function of the primer is to supply a charge of air to the carburetor main well, or carburetor bowl. On diaphragm carburetors it displaces fuel directly into the carburetor venturi. This displaced fuel provides a rich mixture necessary for engines to start easily on the first or second attempt diag.

Primers must be vented either internally a passage in the carburetor air horn prior to the venturi or externally through a hole in the primer bulb. The vent allows air to fill the primer bulb after the primer bulb is released.

On diaphragm carburetors a one way valve in the body prevents the fuel from being forced back into the fuel tank. Two different methods are used to prime float style carburetors, leg prime and bowl prime. The leg prime system is used only on the dual system carburetor. Air is forced into the center leg of the carburetor, which then forces an enriched mixture of fuel up the main nozzle. The bowl prime method is used on Series 6, 8,9 and 10 carburetors and is distinguished by a stepped or hour glass shaped primer bulb.

A good seal of the primer bulbs center lip is critical to assure that a full charge of air reaches the bowl. Also critical is a tight seal around the float bowl. NOTE: Never re-use a bowl gasket. These pumps are connected in the fuel line between the fuel supply and the carburetor or directly to the fuel inlet.

Impulse fuel pumps are operated by crankcase impulses created by the up and down movement of the piston. A hose called a pulse line connects the fuel pump diaphragm chamber to the crankcase and transmits these impulses to the pump diaphragm. The impulses actuate the diaphragm and flap valves to lift the fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor diag. As the fuel is used by the engine, the fuel volume in the carburetor bowl drops and the float moves downward. This allows the inlet needle valve to move off the sealing seat.

Fuel flows by gravity or a pulse pump into the fuel bowl. As the fuel volume in the bowl again rises, it raises the float. This upward float motion moves the inlet needle valve to the closed position. When the needle contacts the seat, the fuel flow is stopped. The tapered end of the inlet needle varies the fuel flow rate so that the fuel volume in the carburetor bowl will remain constant diag.

The float height is set according to the service procedure. Tecumseh diaphragm carburetors use the diaphragm as a metering device. As the intake manifold pressure decreases due to downward piston travel, the atmospheric pressure on the vented side of the diaphragm moves the diaphragm against the inlet needle. The diaphragm movement overcomes the spring tension on the inlet needle and moves the inlet needle off the seat. This permits the fuel to flow through the inlet valve to maintain the correct fuel volume in the fuel chamber.

The inlet needle return spring closes the inlet valve when the pressure on the diaphragm equalizes or a pressure higher than atmospheric exists on the intake side upward piston travel. The diaphragm meters a correct fuel volume in the fuel chamber to be delivered to the mixing passages and discharge ports diag. A main or idle adjustment needle may be replaced by an internally fixed jet on some models.

The main nozzle contains a ball check valve. The main purpose of this ball check is to eliminate air being drawn down the main nozzle during idle speeds and leaning the idle mixture. An advantage of the diaphragm carburetor over the float system is that the diaphragm carburetor increases the angle that the engine may be operated at.

Position shut- lever, then turn screw in 1 turn. Remove welch plug and blow air through air passages. Remove adjustment screw. Check ball is not serviceable on some models. If fuel is restricted, clean or replace fitting. Remove and replace. Gasket and diaphragm sequence may be reversed on some models. Head of rivet must touch inlet needle.

Rivet is hooked into inlet needle control lever on some models. Hole must be clean. On models with bulb primer, vent hole is very small and is located off center. Blow air through passage. Check shaft for looseness or binding. Remove idle adjustment screw. Check needle tip and condition of "O" ring. Remove welch plug and blow out all passages. Removable on emission carbs. Proper installation is important. Must hook over float tab. Clean all passages in nut with compressed air.

To help identify these carburetors here are some simple procedures to follow. The absence of adjustment needles help to identify the carb as well. The dual system carburetor is used on 4-cycle vertical crankshaft rotary mower engines, diag.

They are used on both 2 and 4 cycle vertical and horizontal shaft engines in the 2 through 7 h. It is a float style carburetor with a smaller venturi than the Series 3 and 4 carburetors. Some will have an adjustable idle and main and others will have a fixed main with an adjustable idle. There are also some fixed speed applications that will only have a fixed main system and the idle system will not be drilled, diag. NOTE: Emissionized carburetors will have a fixed jet. The venturi size of these carburetors are larger than Series 1 and Dual System Carburetors.

The quickest way to identify these carburetors is by the presence of bosses on each side of the idle mixture screw. To identify the Series 3 from a Series 4, view the carburetor from the throttle end. The Series 3 has 1 screw securing the throttle plate and the Series 4 uses 2 screws, diag. These carburetors can be operated at a more severe angle than float style carburetors. They still require that the fuel supply be located in a position that allows it to be gravity fed.

Its most distinctive feature is the lack of a fuel bowl. They have a larger venturi than the dual system carburetor and use a simple fixed idle system. Series 6 carburetors used on both vertical and horizontal applications are nonadjustable. The 4 cycle version pictured has a stepped primer bulb. The fixed idle system uses a restricted jet that meters the fuel. The idle restrictor jet will be capped to prevent access unless removed.

The fixed main jet is part of the bowl nut. A ball plug is visible from the bottom, which seals the metering passage. This carburetor also has a serviceable main nozzle emulsion tube.

It also has a stepped primer bulb to assist in starting, diag. It has the idle discharge port located at the 7 o'clock position on the throttle end of the carburetor. Identify this carburetor by the stepped primer bulb, the presence of a non-drilled idle mixing well and a serviceable main nozzle emulsion tube. It also has a fixed idle and main. The idle restrictor jet is capped to prevent access unless the cap is removed. This carburetor also has a serviceable main nozzle emulsion tube and a stepped primer bulb to assist in starting, diag.

The system contains a fuel well that is filled as part of the priming procedure and emptied as the engine runs in the first minute. Internally the standard Series 11 is identified by the plugged passage as shown. The difference is internal through the addition of a second idle feed passage with a restrictor as shown. This extra passage improves run quality during light load engine operation diag.

It has no adjustments and has a primer assist start. It has a noncorrosive float and the needle is viton tipped, eliminating the viton seat found in the dual system carburetor. The angle of the fuel inlet is adjustable and attached to the carburetor body with a banjo bolt.

This carburetor is used on some TVS rotary lawnmower engines. Install a commercially available spark plug tester and check for spark. If spark is evident and acceptable, proceed to step 2. If no or weak spark, see Chapter 8 under "Testing". Visually inspect the spark plug for a wet condition indicating the presence of gasoline in the cylinder.

If the spark plug is dry, check for restrictions in the fuel system before the carburetor. If the spark plug is wet, continue with step 7. Check to see if the fuel cap vent is open. With a proper draining receptacle, remove the fuel line clamp on the carburetor fuel inlet and pull the fuel line off the fitting to examine the fuel flow and fuel condition.

Remove the air cleaner element or air cleaner assembly to visually check that the choke shutter completely closes or check to see if fuel comes out from the main nozzle during priming.

If the fuel flow is adequate and no fuel is evident during priming, the carburetor will need to be removed for service.

The engine may be flooded by a restricted air filter, carbon shorted or defective spark plug, excessive choking or over priming, improperly adjusted or defective carburetor, or the wrong ignition timing.

Install the spark plug and high tension lead and retry starting the engine. If the engine floods and fails to start, the carburetor may require service. The idle on an emission is metered using a threaded restrictor see Illustration. Proper torque of this screw is critical and should be torqued to in.

When the restrictor is placed in the idle circuit passage it is capped with a tamper resistant plastic cap.

Tampering is considered the rejetting or modification through resizing of the jet. If the jet is removed for cleaning it must be recapped to prevent tampering when it is re-installed. Before adjusting any mixture screws the necessary carburetor presets should be made. Check for the proper governor adjustments as outlined in Chapter 4. Identify the correct carburetor model and manufacturer to find locations of the high and low speed adjustment screws.

Check the throttle control bracket for proper adjustment allowing a full choke shutter position. See Chapter 4 under "Speed Controls and Linkage". Check to see if the normal maintenance procedures have been performed oil changed, fresh fuel, air filter replaced or clean.

Consult microfiche card 30 to find the correct R. Start the engine and allow it to warm to operating temperature. The carburetor can now be adjusted. All adjustments should be made with the carburetor in the operating position. Turn both the main and idle mixture adjusting screws in clockwise until finger tight. Now back the mixture screws out counterclockwise to obtain the pre-set figure in the chart shown at right.

From the recommended preset position, turn the main mixture adjustment screw in clockwise slowly until the engine begins to run erratic lean. Note the position of the screw. Now, turn the screw out counterclockwise until the engine begins to run erratic rich. Turn the screw in clockwise midway between these two positions. This will be the best setting, diag.

Adjust the idle mixture screw following the same procedure used to adjust the main mixture adjustment screw. Recheck the high and low R. Note or mark the high and low mixture adjusting screws to aid in reassembly if applicable.

Remove the high speed adjusting screw, bowl nut, and float bowl. Remove the idle mixture screw assembly. Note the position of the spring clip on the inlet needle and float, the long end of the clip must face toward the choke end of the carburetor. Remove the float hinge pin with a needlenose pliers. Some carburetors use a float dampening spring to aid the inlet valve in maintaining a steady position during rough service applications.

Note the position of the hooks before removing the float hinge pin diag. Remove the float, clip, and inlet needle. Remove the inlet needle seat using the Tecumseh carburetor tool as shown. Push the hook through the hole in the center of the seat to remove it. Remove the throttle shutter, throttle shaft, choke shutter, springs and choke shaft by removing the screw s that attach the throttle or choke shutter to the shaft inside the air horn. Remove the primer bulb if equipped by grasping it with a pliers and pulling and twisting out of the body.

Remove the retainer by prying and lifting it out with a screwdriver. Do not re-use the old bulb or retainer diag. Some Tecumseh float style carburetors have a damper spring which is installed as shown, diag. Remove all welch plugs if cleaning the carburetor. Secure the carburetor in a vise equipped with protective jaws. Drive the chisel into the plug to pierce the metal, then push down on the chisel to pry the plug out of the hole diag. Note the direction of the inlet fitting.

If necessary the inlet fitting can be removed. See page The main nozzle on Series 8 and Series 9 carburetors can be removed by pressing the tube outward from the venturi thru the center leg. This nozzle is non-metallic and has an "O" ring seal on the top and bottom end of the tube.

Do not remove a main nozzle that is made of brass from any Tecumseh carburetor. These are pressed in at the factory to a specific depth. When removing the nozzle, the top "O" ring may not come out with the tube. The "O" ring must be removed and placed on the nozzle before it is placed back into the center leg or it will not seal properly, diag. Servicing the standard series eleven and bridged model.

When servicing the series eleven DO NOT soak it in dipping type carburetor cleaners, use only spray cleaner or standard solvent tank cleaners. Proper cleaning requires removal of both welch plugs and cleaning of the restictor s as equipped. The standard series eleven has one restictor in the extended prime well as shown diag.

The Bridged series eleven has an additional restrictor on the idle leg of the carburetor as shown diag. Both are cleaned using spray carburetor cleaner, compressed air and soft tag wire no larger than. The main nozzle on some Walbro carburetors are removable for service. If you remove it, a service nozzle with the under cut fuel passage must be installed or problems will occur diag. Remove the screws holding the diaphragm cover on. Remove the cover, gaskets, and diaphragm noting or marking the sequence or location to aid in reassembly.

NOTE: If a "F" designation on the choke end of the carburetor is present, place the diaphragm on first, then the gasket and cover. If no "F" is present, the gasket goes first. Note or mark the high and low mixture adjustment screws. Remove the screw assemblies. Note or mark the action of the choke and throttle shutters and the hook points of the choke or throttle return spring or seal retainer springs located on the top of the choke or throttle shaft.

Remove the throttle shutter, throttle shaft, choke shutter, springs and choke shaft by removing the screw or screws that attach the throttle or choke shutter to the shaft inside the air horn.

Note and mark the direction of the inlet fitting. If necessary the inlet fitting can be removed by pulling with a pliers or vise. Some diaphragm carburetors have a strainer as an integral part of the fuel fitting. If the strainer is lacquered or cannot be cleaned, the fitting must be replaced. Drive the chisel into the plug to pierce the metal, then push down on the chisel to pry the plug out of the hole.

Clean all parts with a solvent and install a new kit which consists of a coil spring, gaskets and diaphragms diag. To check the float height, hold the carburetor in an upside down position. Remove the bowl nut, float bowl, and "O" ring. The float must just touch the carb tool. If the float is too high or too low, adjust the height by bending the float tab accordingly.

If the required adjustment is minor, the tab adjustments may be made without removing the float and carefully inserting a small bladed screwdriver to bend the tab.

Float sticking can occur due to fuel deposits or when the fuel tank is filled for the first time, this condition can be quickly corrected by loosening the carburetor bowl nut one full turn. Use compressed air and soft tag wire to clean internal carburetor passages. To do a proper cleaning job, the welch plugs must be removed to expose the drilled passages.

NOTE: The nylon check balls used in some diaphragm carburetors are not serviceable. Nylon can be damaged if subjected to harsh cleaners for prolonged periods. Throttle and Choke Examine the throttle lever and shaft, choke lever and shaft, and carburetor body at the bearing points and holes into which the linkage is fastened, and replace if worn or damaged. Any looseness in these areas can cause dirt to enter the engine and cause premature wear.

If dust seals are present, these should be positioned next to the carburetor body. The tip and tapered surface of the needle must not show any wear or damage at all. If either is worn or damaged, replace the adjusting needle. Tension is maintained on the screw with a coil spring. Examine the tapered surface of the high speed mixture needle. If the tapered surface is damaged or shows wear, replace the needle non-emissioned.

Some Tecumseh carburetors use serviceable jet main nozzles. These are identified as being non-metallic. Fuel Bowl Retaining Nut The retaining nut contains the transfer passage or metering jet through which fuel is delivered to the high speed and idle circuit of the carburetor. If a problem occurs with the idle circuit, examine the small fuel passage in the annular groove in the retaining metering nut. This passage must be clean for the proper transfer of fuel into the idle metering circuit.

Torque retaining nut to 50 in. There are two different types of bowl nuts that are used on adjustable main, float style carburetors. One type has one fuel metering port at the bottom of the nut, and the other has two fuel inlet ports at the bottom of the nut.

This difference relates to calibration changes to the carburetor and is dependent on the application diag. The fuel inlet ports must be free of any debris to allow proper fuel flow.

Clean with solvent or carburetor cleaner. Examine the float for damage. Check the float hinge bearing surfaces for wear, as well as the tab that contacts the inlet needle. Replace any damaged or worn parts. The needle and seat should be replaced if any fuel delivery problems are experienced flooding or starvation.

Sealing problems with the inlet needle seat may not be visible, so replacement is recommended. Diaphragms, Pulse Pumps, and Primer Bulbs Inspect diaphragms, gaskets, and primer bulbs for cracks, tears, hardness or brittleness. Replace if necessary. Place the welch plug into the receptacle with the raised portion up. With a punch equal to, or greater than the size of the plug, merely flatten the plug. Do not dent or drive the center of the plug below the top surface of the carburetor.

After installation of the welch plug, seal the outer diameter with finger nail polish or equivalent diag. Throttle Shaft and Plate When reassembling, it is important that the lines or lettering on the throttle plate are facing out when in the closed position.

Test the operation of the throttle and return spring if equipped. If binding occurs, correct by loosening screws and repositioning throttle plate. Always use a new screw s when reinstalling the throttle shutter Tecumseh screws are treated with dry-type adhesive to secure them in place.

Choke Shaft and Plate The choke plate is inserted into the air horn of the carburetor in such a position that the flat surface of the choke is down. Choke plates will operate in either direction. Make sure it is assembled properly for the engine. Test the operation of the choke and return spring function if equipped diag. Always use a new screw s when reinstalling the choke shutter as the screws are treated with dry-type adhesive to secure them in place.

The choke shaft and plate must be in the closed position prior to tightening the screws. Hard starting may be due to insufficient choking action because of a misaligned choke plate.

Correct by readjusting the choke plate to close completely. Note the cut-out position of choke shutter if applicable. Fuel Inlet Fitting Support the carburetor body with a wood block to avoid damage to other parts. Use a bench vise or press to install the fitting squarely.

Insert the tip into the carburetor body, coat the exposed portion of the shank with Loctite grade A, then press it in until the shoulder contacts the carburetor body.

Turn the high speed adjustment screw in approximately one turn into the bowl retainer nut to make an assembly diag. On hp. Some carburetors are of the fixed main type and would not have a high speed adjusting screw. Inlet Needle and Seat On float type carburetors, make sure the seat cavity is clean. Moisten the seat with oil and insert the seat with the grooved side down and away from the inlet needle. Press the seat into the cavity using the Tecumseh carburetor tool making sure it is firmly seated diag.

The inlet needle hooks onto the float tab by means of a spring clip. To prevent binding, the long, straight end of the clip should face the air intake end of the carburetor as shown diag. On diaphragm carburetors the inlet needle and seat assembly are installed by using a socket to tighten the assembly until seated. Be sure to drain any fuel into an approved container. Invert the carburetor and remove the float bowl. This test is best performed when the carburetor is placed upside down and level in a soft jawed vice.

Lift the float and needle assembly off of the seat in order to place a drop of WD on the tip of the needle or on the seat surface. Reposition the float and needle assembly. Using the Tecumseh Leak Tester part , connect the high pressure regulator to the low pressure regulator and attach the clear low pressure air line to the carburetor fuel inlet. Apply approximately psi of compressed air, close the gate valve and disconnect the low pressure guage from the high pressure guage. Monitor the low pressure guage to make sure the needle shouldn't drop below 1.

If the minimum of 1. Float Installation Reinstall the inlet needle and float into the carburetor. The long end of the spring or clip on the inlet needle must point toward the air intake end of the carburetor. If a float dampening spring is used, reassemble using the following steps diag. Place the float upside down. The ends must point toward the choke end of the carburetor.

Hook the inlet needle clip on the inside float tang so the clip end points to the choke end of the carburetor diag. Place the float, float spring, clip and inlet needle in position between the hinge legs of the carburetor. As the float assembly nears the hinge legs, wind the outside end of the spring so it goes to the outside of the leg counterclockwise looking from the choke end. Install the hinge pin from the opposite hinge leg.

The bowl gasket must be positioned over the end of the spring diag. Set the proper float height. Diaphragm Assembly The rivet head on the diaphragm must always face toward the inlet needle valve.

Other diaphragm carburetors have the gasket located between the diaphragm and carburetor body. Install the cover retaining screws and tighten diag. Install the float bowl by placing the detent portion opposite of the hinge pin. Make sure the deepest end of the bowl is opposite of the inlet needle. The bowl has a small dimple located in the deepest part. The purpose of this dimple is to minimize the chances of the float sticking to the bottom of the bowl caused by stale fuel diag.

On some fixed jet non-adjustable and adjustable carburetors, a fibered washer is required between the carburetor bowl and the bowl retaining nut. Occasionally, on engines equipped with the dual system carburetor, some rich starting conditions have occurred when the engine is warm.

This condition can be corrected by inserting a non-metallic spacer in the center leg of the carburetor, as shown part This spacer is designed to reduce the amount of prime charge in the main nozzle area for better starting under warm engine conditions.

It can only be used on Dual System carburetors and does not lean out the carburetor mixture, diag. Impulse Fuel Pump The diaphragms must be installed against the center body with the gaskets against the outside covers. The parts are designed so they cannot be misassembled without damage diag.

To test the unit, assemble the carburetor to the engine, leaving the fuel line from the pump off. Use a different fuel tank remotely placed above the carburetor to provide gravity fuel flow to the carburetor inlet to run the engine while testing the pump.

Make sure fuel is available in both fuel tanks and that the original fuel tank's fuel line is connected to the fuel pump inlet. Place the pump outlet line in a proper draining receptacle. With the pulse line connected from the engine crankcase to the pump and the engine running, a definite fuel flow should result at the pump outlet. If the flow is erratic or intermittent, the pump needs repair or replacement.

Final Checks Before reinstalling a newly overhauled carburetor, pre-set the main mixture adjustment screw, the idle mixture adjustment screw and the idle speed adjustment screw.

This Standard Service Carburetor helps to reduce dealer inventories. Standard Service Carburetors are built in both float and diaphragm versions. The parts from the original carburetor that are necessary to make a standard service carburetor are: choke shaft, shutter and spring, throttle lever and spring, fuel fitting, idle adjustment screw and spring.

If any or all of these old parts are worn or damaged, replace each part with a new service part to assure proper function and prevent engine damage. Use the diagrams on the next page as a guide to facilitate the correct installation of parts diag. Use the parts manual to obtain the same fuel inlet fitting that was installed in the original carburetor. Install the fuel fitting in the new carburetor body in the same position as on the original carburetor.

Support the carburetor body with a wood block to avoid damage to other parts. Press it in until it bottoms out. Use a pliers or vise to remove the plastic part of the inlet fitting.

Remove the choke shutter screw from the original carburetor and remove the choke shaft. Observe the position of the ends of the choke return spring if one is present. Some chokes turn clockwise and some turn counterclockwise, note the position of the choke shaft prior to removal from the old carburetor.

If a choke stop spring is present on the new carburetor and is not used on the old carburetor, cut it off with a side cutter or pull it out using a pliers.

Test the action of choke shaft to make sure it moves freely and easily and does not bind in either open or closed position. If binding occurs, loosen the shutter screw; reposition the shutter and tighten the screw. Install the throttle spring and lever on the new carburetor with the self-tapping screw furnished. If dust seals are furnished, install them under the return spring. Idle Speed Adjustment Screw Remove the screw assembly from the original carburetor and install it in the new carburetor.

Turn it in until it contacts the throttle lever. Tecumseh 4 cycle engines are equipped with mechanical type governors. Changes in engine R. The throttle is opened when the engine R. The shape of the governor weights force the governor spool to lift. The governor rod maintains contact with the governor spool due to the governor spring tension. As the spool rises, the governor rod rotates, causing the attached outer governor lever to pull the solid link and close the throttle opening.

When the engine speed decreases, the lower centrifugal force allows the governor weights to be pulled in by the governor spring. As the spool lowers, the governor rod rotates and the solid link pushes the throttle to a more open position diag. Hunting engine R. Engine overspeeding either with or without throttle movement must be corrected immediately before serious engine damage occurs.

Use the following procedure to diagnose a suspected governor problems. If the engine runs wide open faster than normal , shut the engine off immediately. Check the condition of the external governor shaft, linkage, governor spring, and speed control assembly for breakage, stretching or binding.

Correct or replace binding or damaged parts. Follow the governor adjustment procedure and reset the governor - see "Service" in this chapter. Run the engine. Be ready to shut the engine off if an overspeed problem still exists. If the problem persists, the engine will require disassembly to inspect the governor gear assembly for damage, binding, or wear. See Chapter 9 under "Disassembly Procedure" to disassemble the engine.

Remove the governor gear assembly. Repair or replace as necessary. Try to stabilize the engine R. If the engine R. See "Service" governor adjustment procedure in this chapter.

If the problem persists after the governor adjustment, check the engine R. The R. If the R. Check the governor shaft or linkages for binding, wear, or improper hookup. Check the governor spring for adequate tension. Rotate the clamp in a direction that will force the throttle shaft open and allow the governor follower arm to rest on the governor spool. Push the governor lever connected to the throttle to the wide open throttle position.

Hold the lever and clamp in this position while tightening the screw diag. The clamp must be removed from the governor rod and turned to the same position as the original engine.

Hook the solid link and spring to the governor lever and position the clamp on the governor rod. Follow the above governor adjustment procedure to complete the short block governor set-up.

Units built after use the normal governor set up procedure, diag. On older style governor assemblies, the retaining ring must be removed to allow the spool or gear to slide off the shaft. Newer style governor shafts 3 - 6. If the gear requires replacement, the governor shaft will have to be removed. Grip the original spool in a vise and use a twisting and pulling motion on the flange until the spool is free.

Install the new spool by starting it on the shaft and then turning the flange over. This will allow the weights to hang in the proper position. Place the spool on a solid surface and push on the flange until the spool seats.

The governor weights must be in position under the spool after installation, diag. Clamp the shaft in a vise and pound gently on the flange with a wooden or plastic mallet to remove the shaft. To install a new shaft, first assemble the gear and washer on the shaft. Start the shaft into the hole with a few taps from a soft faced hammer.

Place the flange in a press with a solid piece supporting the area below the shaft boss. Press the shaft in until a shim, part just becomes snug [.

Remove the retaining ring, spool, gear assembly, and washers. Start the new shaft into the shaft boss by tapping with a soft faced hammer. Refer to the chart at right for the proper shaft exposed length. Add a drop of red Loctite and press the governor shaft to the proper depth using a press or a vise. Wipe the extra Loctite off after installation diag. Reassemble the governor and install the retaining ring.

Linkage attachment points are best recorded or marked prior to disassembly. This assures the correct placement during reassembly. On vertical shaft engines the solid link is always connected from the outermost hole in the governor lever to the throttle in the carburetor. The link with the governor spring attached is connected between the control lever and the lower hole in the governor lever. Horizontal engines use one location non-adjustable speed control brackets.

Most vertical engines use an adjustable speed control bracket mounted above the carburetor. The ignition ground out switch, idle R. Some models use the idle R. Most vertical shaft engines must have the speed control bracket aligned when installing. To align the control bracket, use the following steps.

Loosen the two screws on the top of the panel. Move the control lever to full wide open throttle position and install a wire or aligning pin through the hole in the top of the panel, the hole in the choke actuating lever, and the hole in the choke diag. With the components aligned, tighten the two screws on the control panel. The following pages illustrate common linkage attachment.

Whenever the carburetor or the governor linkage is removed or replaced, the engine R. Use microfiche card 30 or the computer parts look-up system for the correct R.

Use the speed adjustment tool part as illustrated in diag. To adjust high speed, move the speed control lever to the high speed position and align the high speed pin holes. Place the adjustment tool on the high speed tab and move the tab to achieve the correct engine speed.

❿  

Tecumseh service manual download.ManualsLib has more than 406 Tecumseh Engine manuals

 

To do the job right you need the proper service instructions and specs for your machine. Tecumseh service manual download written at basic level, these materials contain clear and accurate instructions for both troubleshooting and repair. These are the same manuals used photo recovery 6.0.0.1 + b@tman free the pros and will pay for themselves on the first job.

Email: Sales M-and-D. New to Repair? Parts Diagrams. Appliance Parts. Electrical Supplies. Golf Cart Parts. Can't find it? Small Engine Tools. In-store specials. Clearance Items. Acme-Lombardini Parts. Agri-Fab Parts. American Lawnmower Parts. Baja Motorsports Parts. BCS Tractor Parts. Bradley Mower Parts. Briggs and Stratton Parts. Brown Products Parts. Bunton Parts. Coleman PowerMate Parts.

Delta Tools and Parts. Devilbiss Parts. Dirt Devil Parts. DR Power Parts. Echo Power Equipment Parts. Encore Parts. Majual Parts. EZ Trench Узнать больше. Generac Engine Parts. Generac Generators Parts. Genie Garage Downooad Parts.

Windows 10 home generic key free download Dane Parts. Greenworks Parts. Ground Logic Parts. Hatz Deisel Parts. Hitachi Tools and Parts. Homelite Parts.

Honda Parts. Honeywell Generator Parts. Hoover Parts. Jari Sickle Mower Parts. Karcher Parts. Kawasaki Engine Parts. Kipor Parts. Kohler Engine Parts. Kubota Engine Parts. LCT Engine Parts. Madjax Golf Cart Parts. Manhal Chainsaw Parts.

Meyer Plow Parts. Murray Parts. Noram Clutches. Oregon Parts. Parker Sweeper Parts. Peg-Perego Parts. Porter Cable Parts. PowerSharp Parts. PowerSmart Parts. Razor Scooter Parts. Red Hawk Parts. Rhino Tool Company Parts. Ridgid Tool Tecumseh service manual download. Robin Outdoor Parts. Rotary Parts. Royal Продолжение здесь Parts.

Ryobi Tool Parts. Selbro Blowers and Sulkies Parts. Shindaiwa Power Equipment Parts. Small Engines. Southland Tecumseh service manual download Parts. Speeco Parts. Stanley-Bostitch Parts. Tanaka Parts. Tillotson Parts. Generator Parts. Tractor Parts.

Walbro Parts. WorldLawn Parts. Wisconsin Motors Parts. Yamaha Engine Parts. Air Filters. Contractor Eqpt Parts. Tecumseh service manual download Parts. Engine Parts 2-Cycle. Engine Parts 4-Cycle. Fuel Жмите Tecumseh service manual download. Handheld Eqpt Parts. Import Parts 6. Import Parts 9HP. Import Parts 13HP. Maxim Snowplow Parts. Pressure Washer Parts. Shop Supplies. Snowblower Parts. Tiller Parts. Tires, Wheels Etc.

❿    

 

- Tecumseh service manual download

    Contact your local TecumsehPower. Servicing Dealer for assistance. IMPORTANT NOTICE! Safety Definitions. Statements in this manual preceded by the following. Consult the original equipment manufacturer's service manual for battery size, capacities, and testing procedure. WIRING. The wires used in Tecumseh electrical. 1. Service or replace the air cleaner as needed. · 2. Inspect the level and condition of the oil and change or add oil as required. · 3. Remove the blower housing. Tecumseh 2 Cycle Small Engine Repair Manual Service & Repair Manual Download PDF. Page 1. Main Menu. TECUMSEH T E C H N I C I A N ' S. Tecumseh Small Engine Repair Manual Electronic PDF Version - FREE SHIPPING! Covers engine models OHH, OHSK, OHV, OVM-OHM, OVRM ❿